Metalsmithing for the lampwork artist

Metalsmithing for Lampworkers — an Online Tutorial

Lesson Two — Sawing, Filing, Sanding and Polishing

I don't promise that this will be a very exciting project, you will need to progress through a series of lessons before you can make anything really interesting. However, feel free to improvise according to your own creative need.

To begin, read chapter one from the book Jewelry, Fundamentals of Metalsmithing by Tim McCreight. Pay particular attention to page 11, The Sawing Process.

The one point not given enough emphasis is that of tightening the blade in the sawframe. Slip the blade in place and place the saw in the position shown in photo 2 on page 11. Then press your shoulders into the saw frame (to compress the frame) while tightening the holding screws on the blade. When you release the sawframe tension will hold the blade firmly in place. If you neglect this tightening step the blade will flex and break.

Project I — Dangle Earrings

You don't have to love this project, it's only to give you practice in sawing and drilling. Feel free to adapt the shape if you wish, just try to keep it simple.

1. Print out this page and cut out the illustration to the right or create your own shape on a piece of paper.

2. Using the Sharpie, mark off a 1-1/2 x 2-inch section of sheet metal.

3. Set the blade in the saw frame (being sure that the teeth are pointing DOWN towards the handle of the saw!) Press the "C" of the saw between your chest and the bench while tightening the screws of the blade. This will place the necessary tension on your blade. The blades are very fragile and if not placed under tension they are guaranteed to break. Run Bur Life over the blade of the saw. Cut out the marked section of metal. Be sure to hold the saw perfectly vertically, cutting on the down stroke Do NOT apply cutting pressure on the up-stroke. Try to allow the blade to do the work. DO NOT lean into the blade or hold it at an angle.

4. When you get to the end of the first cut, loosen the blade and remove the saw. Reset the blade and cut the second cut.

5. Coat one side of the 1-1/2 x 2-inch section of sheet metal with rubber cement. Coat the back side of the illustration with rubber cement and allow both to dry. When dry, apply the illustration to the metal.

6. Place the metal on your *bench pin and, holding the firmly saw out the two shapes as precisely as possible. Remember to turn the metal, not the saw blade. Cut the shape just outside the lines. You will come back later with a file and refine the shape, cutting the piece closer to the lines. Remember, you can always remove metal.

*Note: you will need to carve out your bench pin before using it. The wooden part of the pin will arrive as a solid wedge of wood, you will need to carve or saw a "tongue" out of the center. The finished pin, when inserted in the pin vise will appear as two "horns" or "fingers" projecting from the vise. Place the metal over these two projections and cut in between these "fingers". Everyone modifies their pin to suit their own needs. See photo page 16 for one version.

If you are sawing correctly, the process will be easy. If it is difficult or you're breaking more than two or three blades, you're doing something wrong. Check the following points:

7. Review the lesson on Files (page 14). The next step will be to file the rough cut edges of your pieces of metal.

8. Begin by placing the pointed end of the coarser file (#0) in the file holder. Firmly holding the metal in the bench pin, stroke he edges of the metal with the file to smooth out the saw marks. Remember, the cutting stroke is the up stroke (opposite of the saw which cuts on the down stroke). Be sure to review "The Filing Process" on page 15.

9. When you have filed both pieces with the coarse file, file them with the finer file.

10. Review the lesson on Drilling (page 12). Place the first piece of metal on a piece of wood scrap. Place the tip of the center punch tool on the marked spot on the metal. Using a regular claw hammer, give one or two firm taps on the center punch to create a dimple. Drill the hole. The purpose of making a center punch is to keep the drill bit from "dancing" over the metal and marring it. Punch the second piece of metal.

11. If your metal has distorted during the punching and drilling process, you can flatten the metal by placing it on the metal part of your bench pin and tapping the metal back into shape with your rawhide mallet. (Lessons on forming, work hardening and annealing will come later).

12. Read the lesson on Abrasive Papers (page 54). Sand the edges of the metal with progressively finer sandpaper. Were you able to create two perfectly matched shapes? If so you get an A plus!

13. Remove the paper template (if you haven't done so already) and sand both surfaces (back and front) of the metal. Start with a fairly fine grit and work progressively smoother.

14. Make a buffing stick the same way as you make a sanding stick (see page 54) but glue (using white glue) chamois cloth around the stick instead or taping sandpaper. Make two sticks, one for bobbing compound and another for rouge. You can leave a metal surface with a mat finish (sandpaper only) or, for a shiny surface, buff first with bobbing compound and finally with red rouge.

15. Clean the compounds off your piece by spraying with an ammonia solution and rinsing under running water.

16. Affix the two metal pieces to earwires and you're done. Or get creative (I know you will) and drill a few more hole to add some lampwork beads!

You now have the basic skills of sawing, drilling, filing and sanding. Practice these core skills by inventing more projects. You can saw out the middle of a shape (know as "piercing") by drilling it, threading your saw blade through the hole and removing portions of the interior. In the next lesson, I will cover the subject of annealing metals and show you how to make simple ear wires.